It is closing in on three pm in Nallur in the outskirts of Jaffna. The afternoon glare falters through the scattered clouds and devotees begin to trickle in, in quick succession through all too simple gates. The sparse surroundings within seemed to have been humbled by the impressive elegance of a temple in the premises. Situated at the juncture where Temple Road meets Point Pedro road its striking presence commands a reverence even from the bystanders regardless of faith. The clock placed in the looming five-storied ‘Kopuram’ or temple tower strikes three, and with it seems to magnetically draw the masses. Each bears an unmistakable demeanour of one imbibed in spiritual intent, to venerate the much loved Hindu God among Tamils all over the world, Lord Muruga, at this temple; the Nallur Kandaswamy Temple, one that is rich in history, spirituality and artistry.
The entrance of the Nallur Kandaswamy Temple is unlike any other traditional kovil. The entrance at the Kopuram unusually reaches out invitingly as an open passageway shaded with an ornate roof. Worshippers are often found seated within its shelter as they wait for the doors to the temple to be opened. These timings are strictly adhered to and the temple is known for its stringent discipline upheld by the present incumbent. Kumaradas Maappana Mudaliyar is the tenth of a lineage of hereditary custodians and hence the temple has remained in the sole custody of one family since 1734 when it was first erected during Dutch occupation by Don Juan Ragunatha Maappana Mudaliyar.
A resurrection of the original temple, which was destroyed during Portuguese rule in 1620, it is said that the new Nallur Kandaswamy Temple inherited some unconventional traits due to the circumstances in which it was rebuilt; the construction of a Hindu Temple in an area of Dutch administration. The temple is devoid of a stupi a key architectural component of a Hindu temple and the sanctum or the main shrine where the deity resides, houses the “Vel” spear of Lord Muruga in place of the Deity. These unorthodoxies, it is believed, helped maintain a Hindu Temple where devotees could practice their beliefs inconspicuously during Dutch religious policy. While the spear symbolises victory over evil, devotees worship with the belief that it will cleanse one’s self of ill will.
Over the past decades the Temple has risen and flourished in beauty and modernity under the present incumbent in keeping with the times. Yet its traditions are upheld such that it is also renowned for the precision of, and distinctively elaborate daily and annual festivals. It is said to be one of the few temples that conducts worship six times daily, commencing at five in the morning and ending at six in the evening, along with a daily parade of the God, known as ‘Nithiyotsava’ in Sanskrit. The non-commercial running of the temple, to date follows an age-old custom of conducting poojas referred to as ‘archanai’ for a charge of one rupee. Open to all regardless of caste or creed the temple only demands adherence to its strict regulations. Men for instance must remove their shirts before entering the sacred temple and the timings of the festivals are never delayed on any account and commenced on time.
As you step into the Temple premises you are immediately engulfed in its enchanting vastness. Its arched passageways stretch endlessly before you. Its intricately carved saffron hued pillars and frill adorned ceilings follow a tireless sequence throughout leaving one with an overwhelming feeling of being short of another pair of eyes to take in all of its beauty. The walls of these passageways, that follow a rectangular course, display vibrant portraits of various deities. A striking one is that of Surya (Sun God) on his chariot harnessed by seven lively coloured horses.
The most breathtaking sight is at the heart of the second court of the Temple. Surrounded by the passageways lies the “Theertha kerni” or the sacred pond with a series of steps leading down to its waters. Standing afoot of the pond at the south end, the placid waters reflect the sculptured inner Kopuram and the surrounding archways, mirroring the Temple’s beauty. The Temple, one of the largest in the country continues its expansion and provides ample space for large gatherings during festival times.
The Nallur Kandaswamy Temple from its beginnings has been a place of worship, peace and solace to the people of Jaffna. Its renown and the veneration it garners are apparent from the endless stream of devotees on a daily basis. The Temple precincts are even said to draw mystics travelling far and wide in search of a holy sanctuary. As one of the foremost shrines in the northern peninsula it offers its devotees and anyone who visits a spiritual realm embodied in beautiful architecture and artistry. Even from a distance one can see the temple tower merging with the sky as if to remind us the presence of a spiritual beacon that resonates all around.
‘Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil Mahothsavam 2010′
Annual High Festival Highlights
August 15, 2010 – Flag Hoisting Festival (Inaugural day )
August 24, 2010 – ‘Manjam’ Festival (10th day )
August 31, 2010 – ‘Kaarthikai Festival (17th day)
September 3, 2010 – ‘Kailasavaahanam’ Festival (20th day)
September 4, 2010 – ‘Vel vimana’ Festival ( 21st day )
September 5, 2010 – ‘Thendaayuthapaani Utsavam’ (22nd day)
September 6, 2010 – ‘Periya Sapparam’ Festival (23rd day)
September 7, 2010 – ‘Rathotsavam’ – ‘Ther’/Chariot Festival (24th day)
September 8, 2010 – ‘Theerthotsavam’ – Water Cutting Festival (25th day)
September 9, 2010 – ‘Thirukkalyanam’ Festival
September 10, 2010 – Shri Bhairava Shanthi Utsavam
The annual festival of Nallur Kandaswamy Temple
The most significant festival that occurs in the temple calendar falls in July/August.
This annual festival begins from the sixth day of the new moon till the next new moon, lasting 25 days. It commences with the flag hoisting ceremony and each day following, summons meticulously arranged festivities where the Vel symbolising Lord Muruga and his consorts parade the corridors exquisitely adorned in rich attire inspiring joy and reverence in the devotees who crowd the Temple during this period. The highlight of the festival period is the “Ther” or chariot festival, which falls on September 7, 2010 this year.
With the regal sight of the Lord Shanmuga aloft a silver throne called the ‘Simhasanam’ arriving through the entrance, the thousands gathered in the courtyard chant “haro hara” in unison, bestowing a rain of confetti of flowers on the Deity. Hailing from all over the country the crowd occupies every nook and cranny of space available in the surroundings and together pulls the chariot away. The festival ends with the water cutting ceremony and in the final days of the festivities devotees can be seen bearing kavadees, a distinctive feature seen during the festival time.
Captions
1 A view from one end of the “Theertha kerni” or the sacred pond
2 The Temple’s intricately designed arches and columns
3 A throng of devotees surrounding the Chariot at the entrance courtyard,
(courtesy: Shayan Kumaradas) Words: Prasadini Nanayakkara
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